Given that Cambodia is 95% Buddhist, it is unsurprising that Christmas here is a non-event. So non-existent is it in Cambodians’ cultural consciousness, that several colleagues asked me what date Christmas was and had to be repeatedly reminded why I wasn’t working on the 25th.
However, all is not lost. Phnom Penh does offer a few chances to get in the festive spirit. The churches hold carol services, and we particularly enjoyed attending a carol concert (complete with overpriced mulled wine) hosted by the ICF church in the beautiful garden of a local restaurant. Select shops and market stalls stock Christmas decorations, whose tackiness provides conclusive proof that Cambodia is far from the most tasteful nation! Still, we chose some tinsel and a small Christmas tree to accompany the bunting and candles sent over by my lovely mother. Mum also sent out some Waitrose Mince Pies, which reminded us of Christmas even when they followed a dinner of noodles or rice! At our local market we set each other a $10 budget to buy each other some small presents to put under the tree. The weather, too, seemed to acknowledge the Christmas season, one day cooling to a positively freezing 23 degrees and prompting the locals to wrap up in gloves and winter coats. Even I shivered and donned my rather neglected hoody, despite knowing that at home these temperatures would have me getting out a deck chair and asking Dad to light the barbeque!
Al fresco carol concert, complete with mulled wine!
Our little shrine to Christmas
First mince pie of the year – thanks mum!
Christmas ‘cake’ – another item sent over by my wonderful mum!
On Christmas morning, we awoke early, prompted more by traffic noise than childish excitement, and opened our presents before heading to a Christmas church service. We ate our Christmas lunch at the upmarket Intercontinental Hotel. Although the roast potatoes weren’t up to mum’s standards, and there was a decided lack of Christmas staples like roasted parsnips, stuffing, pigs in blankets, brussel sprouts and Rollo’s famous brandy butter, it was a very good buffet. In addition to the turkey, there was an array of seafood, salads, Asian dishes, breads, deserts and, best of all, the good quality cheese that is impossible to find in SE Asia. We even managed to steal some biscuits and fruit to ensure we got value for money! After several hours spent bemoaning how much we had eaten, we finished the day by skyping our loved ones and watching a copy of Love Actually purchased for less than £1 at the market – safe to say copyright laws are not strictly enforced here!
Opening presents on Christmas morning
Chocolate for Christmas breakfast – some things never change!
The first Christmas that Ben has needed to wear sunglasses!
Finally, some good quality cheese!
Dessert(s)!
Enjoying my first taste of champagne in several months
Ending the day with Love Actually
Despite enjoying some nice activities, Christmas was somewhat overtaken by our sadness at not being with our families. As such, having to work the next day meant that Christmas was perhaps fortunate, with thoughts of Christmas being replaced by thoughts of annual reports and end of year reviews! This weekend, we are continuing to dispel any notion of a white Christmas by heading down to the coast (this time Sihanoukville, rather than Kep). When we return, we look forward to welcoming some new volunteers to our flat and to completing our last 2 weeks at work. Soon, we will be leaving Cambodia and travelling onwards to South Thailand to begin the last part of our journey.
Khmerry Christmas!
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