Singapore

Singapore is an incredible city. Modern, clean, cosmopolitan. It is efficient, but also friendly – after all, how many other airports give out sweets at passport control?! Unfortunately, it is also an expensive city, particularly in terms of accommodation. Not an ideal destination for two travellers running low on funds! Although we paid more than double our usual room rate, our hostel was one of the worst we have encountered. Let’s just say its standards of hygiene and behaviour were not up to Singapore’s usually strict standards… Still, the staff were nice and at least it encouraged us to go out and explore the city. Our first stops were Little India and Chinatown, which are like cleaner versions of their counterparts in other cities. Later, we headed to downtown or central Singapore.

Temple in Little India

Dinner in Little India

New year decorations (2014 is year of the horse) in Chinatown

Singapore rules – some familiar, some uniquely Asian!

Downtown Singapore, by which I mean the civic district and bay area, is the state-of-the-art Singapore that one imagines. Large buildings dominate this area, where elegant colonial buildings are juxtaposed with the very different beauty of skyscrapers. Strangely, any smaller shops and houses are entirely absent; instead, buildings are interspersed with open space, making the area feel rather soulless. The most iconic skyscraper, Marina Bay Sands, is rather ugly – it resembles a boat marooned on 3 towers – but on closer inspection reveals a peculiar kind of majesty. Marina Bay Sands is also worth a visit for the neighbouring Gardens by the Bay, complete with two domes and a ‘supertree’ skywalk. Although Singapore’s colonial buildings are outwardly far less contemporay, inside they have been sympathetically modernised. My favourite example of this blend of old and new was Singapore’s National Museum, whose traditional facade hides a new extension that allows light to pour into the building. Its exhibitions are also cutting-edge. Visitor audio guides are tablets that sync with exhibits and surround-sound films; ironically, such a modern device really helps you learn about the history of Singapore.

Open spaces in downtown Singapore

Me in front of Marina Bay Sands

Supertree skywalk in Gardens by the Bay

The National Museum

Our next stop was Orchard Road, Singapore’s Regent Street/Fifth Avenue. Here, endless malls line the wide street, but one can avoid the pavement altogether by walking from mall to mall via underground subway systems. As these malls are full of shops and restaurants, they are the perfect destination for experiencing Singapore’s national sports: shopping and eating. Although the malls’ beautifully presented and (by Western standards) reasonably priced food courts allowed us to partake in the latter activity, our dwindling bank balances hindered our participation in the former. Mostly, we just gazed longingly at luxury brands, though we did manage to buy some Levi’s for a bargain price!

Orchard Road

Orchard Road

Enjoying lunch in our favourite food court!

Yes, this shopping mall had a river running through it!

Finally, we had a great day out at Singapore’s famous ‘cageless’ zoo. Half jungle and half landscaped garden, this zoo is one of the world’s finest. In places there really are no restrictions, with animals wandering across the path or leaping overhead, and in others you can enter enclosures. Where cages are necessary, they are cleverly designed to blend in with the path, ensuring close-up views of the animals. Although this was our most expensive outing, it was completely worth it to see such free and contented animals.

Singapore zoo

Baby orangutan swinging above the path

Ben in the zoo’s ‘Ethiopian village’

Beautiful butterflies!

Me inside one of the zoo’s enclosures

So, accommodation aside, Singapore has been an enjoyable end to our trip. Tonight we are going to a rooftop bar for sangria and tapas to toast our adventure. I find it difficult to comprehend that we have been away for five months and have mixed feelings about returning home. I’m sad the trip is over, longing for familiarity, nervous about the prospect of job applications. Most overwhelmingly, however, I feel excited about seeing my family and friends. Indeed, if there is one unifying aspect of every culture we have visited and one lesson that South East Asia has taught me, it is this: family is the most important aspect of our lives and our time with them is to be prioritised and prized. See you on Sunday morning England!

Bali

It’s not often that this blog adopts a negative tone, but I am sorry to say that Bali was something of a disappointment to us. The main towns have fallen victim to the travesties of tourism, which makes getting off the beaten track all the more important if one is to see the true beauty of this island. Our first destination, the Kuta region, was certainly not off the beaten track. A short walk around the area’s streets is made unpleasant by nose-to-tail traffic and unbearably persistent street sellers – much more abrasive that any we have encountered anywhere else in SE Asia. Even the beach, presumably one of Kuta’s main attractions, is good only for surfers and rather unattractive. Dangerous currents not only make swimming ill-advised, but also, during the rainy season, wash up tons of rubbish from elsewhere on the island. Although we were staying in Kuta’s more upmarket neighbour, Seminyak, in practice this meant only that the usual tacky souvenir shops are sandwiched between expensive Western-style boutiques. There was little sign of the beautiful locally-made goods that we would find elsewhere. Luckily for us, our little hotel had a lovely garden and plunge pool that provided a much-needed haven from the noise beyond its gates.

Our hotel’s peaceful little garden

Men defying the traffic to play chess on the road in Seminyak!

A live band plays on Seminyak beach as the sun sets. The dark hides the rubbish…

Enjoying a cocktail on Seminyak beach

Next up was Ubud, a town nestled near the island’s central mountains. This is the cultural capital of Bali, full of art galleries, hidden temples and traditional dance performances. On the main drag the traffic and hawkers once again reign supreme, but escaping down the little side streets reveals the town’s charms. Shops selling handicrafts from nearby villages jostle alongside quirky cafes selling delicious healthy food. Primarily, these cafes cater to the rather clichéd Eat, Pray, Love crowd, who spend their days practicing yoga, writing poetry on their Macbooks and sipping green, veggie-filled juices. We were not part of this clique, but we certainly enjoyed sampling the vegan and ‘raw’ food on offer, including the best and most inventive salads I’ve ever eaten. Luscious countryside surrounds Ubud, and a trip there wouldn’t be complete without a walk through the nearby paddy fields. However, it is advisable not to miss a turning, as we did, and have to walk several extra miles in soaring humidity! To make the most of our time here, we hired a wonderful local driver, Dewa, to show us more of the island. He took us to the vast, achingly-green rice terraces of Jatiluwih, a lakeside temple in the mountains and some wood-carving villages.

Quiet Ubud side street

Ubud’s Puri Saren Agung (Water Palace), set amidst the lily ponds.

Proof that healthy food tastes good! Incredible salad, complete with the best vegetarian satay ever 🙂

Jatiluwih rice terraces

Us at Jatiluwih, showing that we still get on after 5 months together!

Temple at Lake Bratan

Wood carving in a handicraft village

After Ubud, we journeyed north-east for the much needed peace of Amed. ‘Amed’ refers to a series of coastal villages that start with Amed in the North and run southeast to Aas. We picked the village of Jemeluk, situated in a lovely little black sand bay. The beach was full of fishing boats, debris and farm animals, for this is a place where local life continues alongside the emerging tourist trade. We stayed in a family-run guesthouse with only three rooms, and a great little café on the beach. It was simple, and it was heaven; in fact, Jemeluk became one of my favourite destinations of our entire 5 months travelling. We spent several relaxed days watching the world go by on the beach, or hiding from the rain on our sea-facing balcony. One of the highlights of our stay here was snorkelling. Just metres from the beach are a coral reef and hundreds of varieties of tropical fish! The only upsetting aspect of our stay was the children who sold souvenirs on the beach, evidently supplementing their families’ income rather than getting an education. Here, as with most places we have visited, life is terribly hard and the challenges to overcoming poverty seemingly insurmountable.

Jemeluk bay in the morning sun

Fisherman on Jemeluk beach

Boys playing high jump on Jemeluk beach

Ben enjoying a Bintang beer on our balcony

The beauty and poverty of local life seemed far off as we travelled south to Sanur and returned to Bali’s tourist trap. Although the restaurants and nightlife are inferior to those of the Kuta region, Sanur boasts one of Bali’s best beaches. Here, golden sand and calm blue water stretches for several miles. We hired bikes and cycled the length of the beaches’ well-maintained promenade, gazing enviously at the beachside resorts! Aside from sunbathing, there is little to do in Sanur, but we did make one great discovery: Massimo’s Italian restaurant. For the first time in our trip, we tasted authentic Italian food and, much to Ben’s delight, perfect gelato. Needless to say, we spent a couple of very enjoyable evenings there. Tomorrow we return to the airport and fly to Singapore, the last destination of our trip.

Sanur’s beautiful beach

Colourful fishing boats on Sanur beach

Malaysia: Adventures in Food, Part 2

We like Kuala Lumpur. It is a city of contrasts, particularly of old and new: state-of-the-art shopping malls and sky scrapers are as much a part of this city’s culture as temples and museums. There is a balance of local shops and big brands, though perhaps a bit too much of the latter. Excellent public transport, street cleaners and large green spaces – three things lacking in so many SE Asian cities – make this the most liveable place we have visited. Kuala Lumpur is also very diverse. Despite having heard about those in power exacerbating ethnic divides, the Chinese, Indian and Malay communities co-exist in harmony here and participate in each other’s celebrations. Each ethnicity preserves their unique culture and passes it down from generation to generation. There is also a large expat contingent and Malaysians are notably friendly to Westerners.

Kuala Lumpur skyscrapers

Traditional meets modern in KL

Shopping mall decorated for Chinese New Year

 

Traditional lion dance performed at Chinese New Year

Petronas towers at night

On our first day here, we participated in a food tour. Although this did not live up to expectations, largely because it did not actually include that much food, our informative guides took us to parts of the city we would not have otherwise visited and explained their history. Malaysian cooking is influenced by Indian and Chinese cuisines, and includes fried foods or ingredients like pork lard. Even the ice-cream here is fried! Malaysians also have a sweet tooth and like to pair condensed milk with all drinks, including tea. As a result, after the tour, I was feeling guilty about the unhealthy food we had recently consumed. We made a pact to have some healthy-eating days and sought out salads in the city’s trendy, health-conscious cafes. The best meal we discovered was a Japanese-inspired, vegan ‘bento box’, which included lots of brown rice, veggies, tofu and yummy sauces. Hopefully this will please Ben’s grandparents who, unsurprisingly given the food-focussed nature of this blog, have expressed concerns about our weight!

Ben stirring claypot noodles on the food tour

Exploring Little India on the food tour

Fresh jasmine bracelet, given to me by our tour guide

Healthy bento box!

Contrary to popular belief, we don’t spend all of our time here eating… In fact, we spent most of our time in Kuala Lumpur walking to the parks, visiting the central market and several museums. My favourite was the Islamic Arts Museum, which reminded me that religion is responsible for much of the world’s beautiful things. I was surprised to note that Islam also influences popular fashion, with the museum’s jewellery and textiles bearing a distinct resemblance to items found in today’s high street stores. We also took a worthwhile trip to the Batu Caves: 400 million year-old openings in the vast limestone hills that border Kuala Lumpur. The Caves are also one of the biggest Hindu shrines outside India. The site itself is free, and the return monorail and train tickets (45 minute journey) cost less than £1.50!

The Islamic Arts Museum

Outside the Batu Caves

Inside the Batu Caves

For the weekend, we headed down to Melaka. Melaka was world-renowned for its spice trade when Singapore was still a fishing village and, from 1511, was colonised in succession by the Portuguese, Dutch and British. The Straits-Chinese or Peranakan traders also settled here, and their wealth is seen in Chinese Palladian architecture. Just as beautiful are the simple shop-houses that were built using techniques cleverly adapted to the environment. Many of these shop-houses have been demolished or renovated beyond repair, so the UN has funded a preservation project. The Chinese architecture is similar to Penang, yet the shop-houses are reminiscent of Vietnam’s pretty Hoi An. Melaka’s riverside setting makes a boat tour one of the best ways to view its architectural sites, though walking around its bustling streets is equally pleasant.

Baba-Nyonya museum, set in a traditional Peranakan townhouse

Traditional shop-house

Dutch Square, Melaka

Enjoying a boat ride

Painted houses on Melaka’s riverside

As in Penang, the Straits-Chinese or Baba-Nyonyas had an impact not only on architecture, but also on food. My favourite specialities include Laksa (a noodle soup whose Melakan version is distinguished by its coconut milk and lemongrass-infused broth), Popiah (a giant fresh spring roll stuffed with shredded vegetables, egg, palm sugar and much more) and Pineapple tarts (a unique blend of Nyonya and Portuguese cooking). Don’t worry weight watchers, we shared all of the above!

Laksa

Popiah

Pineapple tarts

Unfortunately, however, our healthy diet went on pause upon our return to Kuala Lumpur today. Ben treated me to afternoon tea at the Grand Hyatt’s Thirty8 restaurant, which has panoramic views over KL’s stunning skyline. For 2 sharing, and an extra pot of tea, it cost only £10 per person – quite a bargain given the endless refills of our tea! It was the perfect way to say goodbye to the country that I have loved so much. In the future, I hope to return to Malaysia and explore the east coast and Malaysian Borneo. It will be sad to leave, but I am excited to fly to Bali tomorrow!

An afternoon tea with the best view

Me with the tea

Ben pouring the tea

Afternoon tea or photoshoot?

Malaysia: Adventures in Food, Part 1

A short boat ride, and a painstakingly slow immigration process, took us from Thailand’s Ko Lipe to Malaysia’s Pulau Langkawi. Langkawi is the main island of a vast archipelago; it would be fantastic to sail between the smaller islands if you had time. Langkawi is fairly large, and we wished we’d had our driving licences so we could hire a car to explore remote areas. As it was, we were confined to the beaches of Pantai Cenang and Tengah. Although the beaches were lovely, they were spoilt by the constant hum of jet-skis and a particularly uninspiring strip of shops. Luckily, we stayed in a lovely hotel just off the main stretch, surrounded by beautiful farmland. We also discovered one of the main reasons for visiting Malaysia: food. Walking past a dingy restaurant, Ben commented, ‘that looks like our kind of place’. As we have learned, restaurants that are dark, barely-decorated and have questionable hygiene standards usually serve the best food. Here, we had our first taste of mee goreng (fried noodles) and nasi goreng (fried rice). Our true food adventure, however, would begin in Georgetown.

Our Langkawi hotel

Our Langkawi hotel

Our hotel room

Patai Tengah beach, Langkawi

Enjoying dinner at a beach cafe

We reached Georgetown late at night, after a frustratingly disorganised ferry journey which, like much public transport in SE Asia, brought to mind the words ‘piss-up’ and ‘brewery’. It felt good to be in a city again. Full of beautiful old shop-houses – some dilapidated, others with freshly painted shutters and newly tiled fronts – Georgetown is one of the most photogenic places we have visited. Unfortunately our visit coincided with Chinese New Year, so the majority of shops and restaurants we intended to visit, particularly in Chinatown, were closed. Over our three days, we still managed to visit the city’s main sites. There are many architectural remnants of Malaysia’s colonial past, but I particularly enjoyed visiting the houses and temples belonging to the Peranakans. The Peranakans, descendants of Chinese immigrants, settled in Peninsular Malaysia from the 16^th century. They were often wealthy traders, whose passion for architecture, furnishings, jewellery and fabric has left its mark in Penang.

The mansion of Cheong Fatt Tze, ‘the Rockefeller of the East’

Khoo Kongsi Temple

Pinang Peranakan Mansion

Inside the Peranakan Mansion

British architecture of Georgetown’s City Hall

Informative street signs

Tiled pavements

Traditional shophouse

Kapitan Keling Mosque

Yet one’s time in Malaysia’s hawker capital should never be measured in sites visited, but always in the number of meals consumed. Indeed, the Paranakans’ greatest legacy is their amazing fusion cooking. I became particularly obsessed with food, planning our days around eating and dragging Ben across Georgetown to find the best version of a particular dish. Both of us fell easily into the routine of a free hotel breakfast, followed by a second breakfast of roti and ‘tea tarik’, or dim sum and Malaysian coffee in Chinatown. Next, a ‘banana leaf’ lunch in little India, consisting of a variety of curries, sauces, dips and breads on a banana leaf. Finally, dinner crouched on little plastic chairs by a hawker stall. My favourite hawker fare? Wan Tan Mee (noodles in dark soy sauce or a soup, accompanied by lean pork, leafy  greens and a few wantan) and Cendol (garish green strands made from pea flour and layered with crushed ice, syrup, red beans and coconut milk). In our next stop, the Cameron Highlands, the food would have a much more familiar taste…

Me buying Cendol at a hawker stall

Cooking endless bowls of Wan Tan Mee

Street food-style dining!

Enjoying a lunch of Chinese dumpling soup!

Our hugeee paper dosai 🙂

Even the street art is food related!

After a hair-raising minibus journey, albeit on the best roads we have seen in SE Asia, we arrived in the Highland’s town Tanah Rata. The friendly owners of our homestay accommodation, Jessica and Jaycee, greeted us with plenty of local advice and a homemade Chinese meal. As the photo below testifies, the freshly cooked breakfasts were equally tasty! Best of all, they were eaten overlooking the nearby mountains. On our first day, we went on an enjoyable tour of a forest, tea plantation and strawberry farm. Most importantly, we got to sample some tea and strawberry ice-cream!  On our second day, we hiked the local trails. Despite the pretty plants and river, our focus was not solely scenery but, of course, food! Our walk took us to a mock-Tudor pub serving Malaysian tea and Devonshire scones. The weather, too, reminded us of home – daytime temperatures are similar to an English summer’s day and the nights were cold enough to need a duvet and blanket!

Chinese dinner, cooked by our lovely hosts

Just one of our beautiful Cameron Highland’s breakfasts – I could get used to this!

The view from our homestay

Enjoying a cup of tea while watching the sunset

Hiking through ‘Mossy Forest’

Overlooking the Boh tea plantation

Ben relaxing at ‘Ye Olde Smoke House’ before our cream tea. Hard to believe we’re in Asia!

Today, we travelled to our next destination, Kuala Lumpur, and returned to the sweltering lowland heat. In KL we are looking forward to, among other things, a food tour. The culinary adventure continues!